|Climbing in Central Ontario
|The Niagara Escarpment
which runs from Niagara Falls to Tobermory has dozens of crags open
to climbers. Climbers will find world class routes, and incredible
views, at Lion's Head on the Bruce Peninsula.
There are several other less developed areas in the immediate vicinity
at Cabot's Head, White Bluffs and Halfway Log Dump which also has
excellent bouldering. In Grey County you'll find several areas in
the Owen Sound area including Harrison Park and the Catalan Quarry.
They've once again opened Old Baldy to climbers in the Beaver Valley
area of the Escarpment. In the same area you'll find some easily accessible
climb at the side of the Talisman Ski Hill in Kimberley. To the south
of the region the Escarpment is home to routes at Mount Nemo, Kelso
Elora Gorge and Rattlesnake Point.If your willing to do some driving
Bon Echo,several hours to the east, has
an excellent large wall to challenge you. Finally north of the region,
in the Thunderbay area (a long day, or perhaps, day and halfs drive)
you'll find some of Ontario's best ice. If you're into bouldering and your in the
south, Niagara Glen is getting the worlds attention with its endless
array of problems. Speaking of problems, if the weather isn't
on side, you might want to visit one of areas many rock gyms. Finally,
there's our friend Pete who insists that he wants to develop the first
routes on the CN tower - I don't think so!.
Note: The Escarpment provides
a delicate and unusual ecosystem please have full respect for the area
and please don't put up new routes. In addition many access routes and
crags are on private land. If you camp make sure that the it is permitted
and be sure to use low impact methods. Better still there are dozens of
parks and conservation areas along the Escarpments length, take advantage
- Bowles Bluff - 9 routes, 5.6-5.11. The crag is located at the Talisman
Ski Resort on the last trail to the south. Contact Talisman Resort for
- Cabot Head - 12+ routes, 5.4-5.10 The cliffs are almost 50m (150ft)
in height. Follow Highway 6 from Owen Sound passed Miller Lake then
head east to Brickman's Corner and Dyer's Bay. At Dyer's Bay follow
the road along the coast to the northeast to the Cabot Head lighthouse.
Hike north/northwest along the beach for about 3-4km and watch for the
small path into the area.
- Halfway Log Dump - 7 routes, 5.4-5.10 The routes are short but the
rock is very good and the bouldering is excellent. Just north a few
hundred metres further is Cave Point where you'll find the solitary
and difficult Terminal Beach (5.12), reputadly one of the best crack
climbs on the escarpment. From Owen Sound follow the 6 north to Emmett
Lake road just before the turn off into the Cypress Lake campground.
Bear right at the fork and follow the road to the parking lot for the
Bruce Trail access. Head north about 1.5km. Cave point is another 200m
furthur on. There is wilderness camping on the Bruce Trail about 9km
south at High Dump (reserve with the park) or front country camping
about 3.5km north at Cypress Lake. Contact Bruce Peninsula National
Park for more information, Bruce Peninsula, Bruce County.
- Lions Head - 100+ routes, most climbs are 5.10 or
higher, access is from a hanging belay. Follow Moores Road and watch
for the fork which follows the Bruce Trail (white blazes) which will
lead you to the cliffs. Contact Lions Head
Provincial Park, Bruce Peninsula for more information, Bruce County
- Old Baldy - 80+ routes, mostly 5.10 and higher.
The area was one of the best in Ontario but it has been closed for several
years. Access has again been granted but some of the routes may have
been lost in the interim. There is contact the Grey
Sauble Conservation Authority for details. From Meaford head south
on the 7, then head east on the last road before you enter the town
of Kimberly. Continue on for a short distance then turn right at the
top of the hill. The trail from the parking lot leads to the cliff.
- White Bluff- 15+ routes, 5.8-5.12. Cabots head is just north of Lions
head across Isthmis and Whippoorwill Bay from the climbing area. The
Monument is with its excellent roof cracks is the best know route here.
From Lions Bay head north on the 9 and park on Whippoorwill Road then
continue on to the end of the road and follow the trail to the area.
Off the Wall - Barrie
Clarkson Rock - Mississauga
Joe Rockhead's - Markham
The Rock Oasis - Toronto
Toronto Climbing Academy - Toronto
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